{Summer Shorts Feature} True Bias Emerson

Happy Monday!! This is my first of 3 weeks with no kiddos during the daytime *highfive* - and I have very high hopes of knocking out the rest of my muslins for the Summer Shorts Feature this week. Fingers crossed!! As for today, we're covering the True Bias Emerson shorts!

First Impressions:

  • These are wide-leg crop pants with a shorts view as well. Their pull-on style makes them easy to fit and a more casual style overall - great for beginners!
  • There's a handy print guide in the pattern tutorial - which cuts down on waste when you print your 18 shorts-pattern-pages.
  • Instructions include 5 pages of thorough illustrations, and 3 additional pages of measurement charts, glossary, and fabric requirements and suggestions.
  • I wish the waistband assembly included enclosed raw edges, though the suggested method does eliminate extra steps/ironing as a result. 
  • The absence of buttons/holes or zippers make this pattern the first I've covered in this series that is an ideal match for lightweight or unstable fabrics like rayon challis, cotton lawn, or modal chambray.

The Muslin

I'm a 27.5 waist, 38 hip, which puts me between the Size 4 waist and Size 8 hip. But, coming from my oversized muslin on the Hepburns last week, I figured it best to err on the smaller size... blending the 4 and 6. Because I'm really good at ignoring my own "better to muslin with more fabric than less" advice. Good gravy, self. I could hardly pull them on, much less wear them comfortably. 

So I went digging through the trash for my pattern trimmings and cut out a flat out size 10 - which none of my measures put me in. Why 10?? Because my seat seam shape indicated (via this method) I'd need that much depth to comfortably cover my hiney.

The rest of my adjustments looked like this:

Here are those same images again you can scroll through at your leisure: 

  • I needed my usual petite adjustments at the rise/hem, but since True Bias drafts for 5'5, I had much less excess length to remove than the previous two patterns (apparently the folks run Tall in Australia!). Cutting on the size 6 rise/hem lines was sufficient.
  • My tush is a size 10, but my hips are not. Size 8 side seams removed excess width at my hips.
  • I needed a tiny "scoop" removed for my low bottom. Either the elliptical is lifting my sassy booty or True Bias drafts for a less athletic bum than the other two designers I've covered so far. Maybe both!? Excuse me while I go do some squats.
  • Everything I did to the rise/side seams I had to do for the pockets as well.

*TIP* I didn't want to waste elastic on my muslin, so I grabbed a good-recovery knit from my scrap stash, and cut a rectangle as tall as the waistband pattern piece, and as wide as the suggested elastic measurement. That way I have an accurate measurement of the rise of the shorts as well as the fit around the waist.

I put my adjusted pattern to work right away with what I'd hoped would be a wearable, stash-busting rayon challis muslin. The result?

I'm in loooove! And while I promised I'd use all the same fabrics for my final version of the shorts in this series, I may have to break that vow to make an olive modal chambray pair instead. Can you blame me??

Pstttt, that cocktail ring is less than $20 and available (along with all the other jewels I'm sporting) via my Stella and Dot website. Grab it from the sale section before it's gone!


So what do we think so far?? Are you more or less intimidated by the idea of muslining pants/shorts now that you've seen me walk through it a few times? Are the animations helping or confusing you further? This is the half way mark through the series - let me know what you'd like to see more or less of in these pattern intros and muslin break-downs.

Side-by-side photos of Hepburn, Flint, and Emerson coming up next!